Reformulación de emulsiones cosméticas con activos naturales
Fecha
2016-07
Autores
Navarro Pérez, Yisel María
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Editor
Universidad Central “Marta Abreu” de Las Villas. Facultad de Química Farmacia. Departamento de Farmacia
Resumen
Actualmente existen problemas con la elaboración de las cremas cosméticas con activos naturales del Laboratorio Provincial de Cosméticos de Villa Clara (LPC-VC) debido a carencia de uno de los emulsionantes, el monoestearato de glicerilo. El presente trabajo tiene como objetivo reformular la emulsión base de las cremas cosméticas del LPC-VC empleando como único emulsionante lauril éter sulfato de sodio (LESS), mediante un proceso de elaboración más corto y simple. Con este fin se elaboraron por el método de fusión 8 formulaciones, obtenidas mediante un diseño de experimentos factorial 23. En el método de elaboración se consideró preparar el gel LESS/NaCl en frío a partir de una solución saturada de NaCl, e incorporar la fase acuosa a la oleosa a 75 °C, asegurando la disolución previa en la fase acuosa de la mayor cantidad posible de componentes solubles en agua. Se evaluaron las formulaciones en cuanto a propiedades organolépticas, tipo de emulsión, extensibilidad, densidad aparente, pH y estabilidad física acelerada mediante los ensayos de centrifugación y ciclos de temperatura. El empleo del emulsionante LESS al 1,5 %, NaCl al 0,5 % como viscosante y 500 rpm como velocidad de agitación permitió obtener una formulación con todos los requerimientos en cuanto a calidad tecnológica y estabilidad física acelerada, mediante un proceso más corto y simple.
Currently there are problems with the preparation of cosmetic creams with natural actives of Villa Clara Cosmetics Provincial Laboratory (VCCPL) due to the instability in the supply of glyceryl monostearate, one of the emulsifiers. This work aims to reformulate the base emulsion of VCCPL cosmetic creams using sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) as the only emulsifier, through a shorter and simpler processing. For this purpose eight formulations were prepared by the fusion method, obtained by a factorial 23 experiments design. In the method of preparation it was considered to prepare the SLES /NaCl gel in cold from a saturated NaCl solution, and incorporating the aqueous to the oil phase at 75 °C, ensuring prior dissolution in the aqueous phase of the maximum amount of water soluble components. The formulations were evaluated considering organoleptic properties, emulsion type, extensibility, bulk density, pH and accelerated physical stability by centrifugation and temperature cycles. It was possible to obtain a formulation with all requirements in terms of technological quality and accelerated physical stability, through a shorter and simple process by the use of SLES as emulsifier at 1.5%, NaCl at 0.5%,as thickening agent, and 500 rpm as stirring speed.
Currently there are problems with the preparation of cosmetic creams with natural actives of Villa Clara Cosmetics Provincial Laboratory (VCCPL) due to the instability in the supply of glyceryl monostearate, one of the emulsifiers. This work aims to reformulate the base emulsion of VCCPL cosmetic creams using sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) as the only emulsifier, through a shorter and simpler processing. For this purpose eight formulations were prepared by the fusion method, obtained by a factorial 23 experiments design. In the method of preparation it was considered to prepare the SLES /NaCl gel in cold from a saturated NaCl solution, and incorporating the aqueous to the oil phase at 75 °C, ensuring prior dissolution in the aqueous phase of the maximum amount of water soluble components. The formulations were evaluated considering organoleptic properties, emulsion type, extensibility, bulk density, pH and accelerated physical stability by centrifugation and temperature cycles. It was possible to obtain a formulation with all requirements in terms of technological quality and accelerated physical stability, through a shorter and simple process by the use of SLES as emulsifier at 1.5%, NaCl at 0.5%,as thickening agent, and 500 rpm as stirring speed.
Descripción
Palabras clave
Laboratorio Provincial de Cosméticos, Villa Clara, Cremas Cosméticas, Industria Cosmética